The ferry was about 30 minutes long, and although this area is usually windy and rainy, the beautiful sunny morning made the scenery quite spectacular. The ferry dropped us off on a peninsula that we needed to drive across to Hornopiren, about 50 km away, to catch the second ferry. Our research had shown that it either had 1 sailing a day at 11 am or 2 sailings a day at 10am and noon. Chile can be quite vague with these things. Also, signs seemed to indicate that reservations were required for vehicles, but since the website you had to reserve on uses "flash" all our apple products couldn't work.
The drive across the peninsula was going well then all of a sudden, after about 10kms, the pavement ended and it was a dirt road. We slowed to a reasonable speed and bounced around on the road, avoiding potholes the rest of the way. We arrive at about 10:50. Turns out the ferry is at noon, and they let us buy tickets right there.
While waiting for the ferry, we started talking to a guy from Southern California. He has been backpacking South America for about a year, and planned on at least another year more. He was also going to Brazil for the world cup, and had a job lined up for it. Later on in the day, we would see him again in Chaiten. Seems hitching is just as fast as riding small motorcycles.
We also see a family, man and wife, with 2 small boys, walking on to each of the ferries. They seem to be poorer, and it appears they are carrying most of their belongings with them. Once on board the ferry, Al notices the parents put life vests on the children. Al, who is eating peanuts, goes over and and shares them with the family, who seem most grateful.
Another stunning and scenic ride, this ferry lasted 4 hours, and was only $15. I took out my air mattress and put it out in a seat on the upper deck. Probably got a good hours sleep up there. Upon docking from this ferry we had a 10 km ride before catching the last ferry. The road once again was gravel, but in decent condition. While waiting for the last ferry, Al had what he thought was a bee hovering around him. He swatted at it, it didn't leave. He swore at it, but it still didn't leave. Next, he ran from it, so it followed,and invited some of it's insect friends to join. He now had about 8 or 10 chasing him. All the Chileans were laughing away. All I was thinking was that as long as they all liked him they would leave me alone. Turns out they aren't bees, they are a gigantic biting black fly, common in the area.
We board our last ferry, a short 30 minute trip, which was included in our previous fare. At 5:30 in the evening, we arrive at Caletta Gonzalo, a port that contains a ferry ramp and a lodge, nothing else.
As we make our way along the gravel road, it truly is a different scenery from anything i have seen before. We see the family Al had shared his peanuts with standing by the road, hoping to get a ride the 60 kms to civilization, and I wished I could have obliged. The road is about a lane and a quarter wide, and the vegetation on each side is lush, like one would imagine the amazon to be. Although this area would be the southern equivalent to lower Alaska, the constant rains help things grow densely. Every once in a while through the trees, a snow capped mountain appears, or a river flowing in the greenest colour water can be. 60 kms and an hour and a half later we near Chaiten, where our gravel one lane "highway" does a strange thing. All off a sudden the road has an open gate on it, it widens to about 6 lanes wide, still all of gravel, and signs guide us to a little strip to the far right. About a half kilometer later, the reverse happens, and it is back to one lane. I stop at the end and look back and see a small control tower and a wind indicator flag. This was the Chaiten airport... They just use the road! As we neared Chaiten, we pulled over to take photos. A minivan came past us, honking and waving...looks like the peanut family had found a ride! Not surprising, since so far in Chile everyone has seemed so nice, friendly and helpful. Hopefully I can learn from this.
In Chaiten, the road turns to pavement. We motor along for about 50 kms, and then decide to look for somewhere to camp. The road once again turns to gravel about now, and as we ride along it starts to get pretty rough. About 15kms along the road, with my gps batteries dead, I ask Al to check on his gps. Apparently we missed the main road,which made a 90 degree right, and had continued straight instead. We turned back, found the main road again, and appreciating the pavement, drove about another 30 kms until Lago Yelcho. We crossed the huge, one lane suspension bridge, and then parked underneath it to camp for the night. As we set up our tents, the wind picked up and darkness set in. The sun sets here at around 10:30 this time of year. As we all quickly tried to eat something, Chris once again drops his food on the ground. I let him use my can opener, and it is one of those odd ones that removes the entire top of the can, so as it finished opening, the whole can dropped to the ground. A short time after this, we all settle in to our tents. It had been a beautiful day, with fantastic weather and something to look at around every corner.
Bikes on board the ferry
View from the boat
Awesome scenery !
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